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| Leftover Supper | Page 3 of 5 |
 Simon
Make an incision in the centre of the pugliese loaf, using a knife that's been in the family for over sixty years. (If you're 'new money', buy one and wait.) Blade-run a forty-five degree wedge. Admire its perfect triangularity. Then understand this: 'perfect' is wrong. Leftovers aren't about 'perfect'. They're about exquisitely created mess. So humiliate the wedge's edges, roughing them up in a casual way, like a tired Kray Brother.Now for the chicken. Brando one-third of the butter in the chicken's world of interior. Then mollify its complexion with the remaining two-thirds. Massage rhythmically and gently. Your aim is to make the dead bird happy. If a chicken feels bitter, it tastes bitter. Aga-sweat at 200, for about 58 minutes, butter-basting often. When your chicken is noblesse oblige, embarrass a leg and some decolletage and twirl some flaked flesh in the pan-sweat. Leave by a south-facing window for an hour, giving the chicken ample time to de-traumatise and un-heat.
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