Waltz a hundred grams of organic unsalted organic butter round a highly-sprung cake tin.

Ligne the bas with baking parchment. Hot-bubble the chestnuts in the lait de chèvre till they're al dente enough to manger.

Hurl the disappointed chestnuts into the Mouli con your Galician almonds. Make sure you buy chestnuts that have been shelled, blanched then deep-frozen to minimise the risk of insect attack. There's a never-ending war between man and insects to get to the best almonds first.

But man's got more money and will always win in the end.