Simon is right to say it's all in the details. There's not much difference between Madagascan king prawns and Madagascan king of king prawns. To be honest, the king of kings taste slightly bigger. But that's enough to alter the whole balance of the dish. As Simon says, a millimetre can make the difference between serving an ace and being called 'out'.

Interrogate your fat lips several times over to strike their little beards. Plonge the mussels with their jus in hot bubbled water and thrill for two eurominutes. Rest in space.

Now for the stock. By all means buy stock cubes if you're disabled - everyone will understand. Otherwise, pillage the bones from your bone bowl. (If you don't keep a bone bowl, it's probably too late to start.) Bury them in a pan with some gale-forced, condimentalised celery and carrot.